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Atacama Desert in Chile

Updated: 7 days ago

I wanted to go to a desert since I was a little kid, maybe because of watching the Young Indiana Jones series. But never, ever, did I think I would visit the Atacama Desert, the driest desert on Earth. Not in my wildest dreams. When we were driving to San Pedro de Atacama, there was nothing around, just fields of wind plants and nothingness – wilderness of hot air and unfriendly soil, you could feel the unfriendliness of it to the animals and the people. It looked like in cowboy movies, and, yes, there were those balls made of branches rolling along the highway. In a funny way was it felt so peaceful.


Guest Blogger: Zeljka Rajic Aralica, Touring Croatia


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San Pedro de Atacama


Then, finally, San Pedro de Atacama! What a rush of adrenaline that my heart hadn’t felt in a long time and my eyes had never seen  – a dirty road, with no concrete, but, literally, it’s just sand and dust. And somehow we didn’t mind, on the contrary, it felt like such a relief. Like a scene from a western movie. There are some pavements, but they can’t be seen quite well under all the dust.


The first thing I got an urge to do was to take off my shoes and run through a dusty road, like I did in the kids’ park when I was little. Tourists are walking around with clothes filthy from dust and sweat, but full of happiness with dazzled faces. It’s the primary happiness. San Pedro de Atacama is a little village from where the most tours are operated, so we booked a room there.

And then a slap in the face: a house with – A POOL! For renting it to very rich people. I was so, so hungry, and we sat in the first restaurant we saw. You have to experience this. While you sit and wait for your lunch, you can see the lady cooking another meal in a large pot in the backyard. Priceless! This meal was one of the best in my life: lamb soup, fried chicken with rice and vegetables, and coffee. About coffee…You get a jar with coffee, a jar of sugar, and boiling water so you can prepare your own coffee. From the moment we were driving from the airport, then eating in this restaurant, I felt so „grounded“, so down to earth, so willing to let go of everything, so freed. Everything felt so simple, as it should be. There's still a part of me regretting not just staying there, although it sounds ridiculous.

After lunch, we went for the tour I'd booked. It was Valle de la Luna and Valle del Muerte.



Valle de la Luna


As our group got to the Valle de la Luna and started climbing dunes, the fact of not wearing long trousers seemed quite stupid…it easy extremely hot and you could feel the sun biting your skin. I’ve never seen dunes before, so I forgot all about not wearing long trousers and the discomfort of the burning sun; it didn’t matter anymore.  It was remarkable. At that point, I realized all the other tourists were overwhelmed and acting like kids again, running up and down the dunes, like little kids.

Our guide, George, had native ancestors, so we heard some very interesting stories and facts, among which was the name of one Andes peak means „The place where flying saucers take off“. George explained that there are two explanations of Valle del Merete’s name. One was that many people had died of hunger and heat while trying to cross it. Another was that a missionary who had found it said it looked like a Mars (Marte in Spanish language) Valley, but later on it was wrongly pronounced and turned into Muerte Valley.



Valle de Muerte in Chile


After that, our group headed to see stone statues called Tres Marias (Three Marys). Nowadays, there are two and a half Marias, because years back a tourist climbed one and broke it. This is why we (tourists) are sometimes called the “lowest life intelligent species”… I ate salt from the salt crystals on the ground, went to the caves (would not recommend this to claustrophobic people) , did a bit of climbing on the way out, and then it was time to go to Valle del Muerte (Valley of Death) Canyon.



The view from the top is something I could never describe with words. So magnificent and calming. When you capture that feeling of how small you are, how all the things bothering you aren’t problems, and how all of us look at the same sunset and see the same moon.


This specific moment, watching another day coming to its end, and watching it with hundreds of other people. All of us gazing, like paralyzed, and finally being present at this moment. This is the feeling I recall again and again in my mind.


Sunset at Atacama


I’ve seen the most magnificent view in Atacama, trying to find its end, which couldn’t be seen as far as the eye can see. Literally and figuratively speaking. No photo can picture it and leave you with the same impression you have when you’re there.


Left most of my grief in Atacama. Found my peace in Atacama. Fulfilled one of my oldest wishes of going to the desert in Atacama. Had one of the best meals I’ve ever had in Atacama.



Tips and Tricks when visiting the Atacama Desert


There is no airport in San Pedro de Atacama, so you have to take on to Calama. When you get to the airport, there’s a bus, but don’t take it, it goes to Calama city centre, from where you have to go to a bus station to take a bus to San Pedro de Atacama. Instead, take a combi cab from one of the providers at the exit of the airport. The price of a return ticket is 23000 pesos ($35/30€), which is not expensive as it's almost a one and a half hour drive.



 

Guest Blogger Zeljka Rajic Aralica from Croatia shares her travels on Touring Croatia. She started to document her travels when she couldn't start a Travel Company. Follow her on Touring Croatia and Facebook.



 

Disclosure: Our site contains Affiliate Links. As an Amazon Associate, we also earn from qualifying purchases. Clicking an Affiliate Link and purchasing something we recommend won't cost you anything extra—it probably will save you some bucks. It will, though, give us a small commission, which will help this site remain a free resource for travellers to explore our world together.

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